A perpetual calendar for everyone
IWC continues to refine and simplify the perpetual calendar under the watchful eye of its former master watchmaker Kurt Klaus
WHEN IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN UNVEILED THE Da Vinci Chronograph Perpetual Calendar in 1985, it showed how the perpetual calendar – one of the most complicated mechanical watches – could be made simple and user-friendly.
This “complication” not only tells time, but also the day and date. Once the perpetual calendar is set, no more adjustments are required – not even when months last 28 to 31 days, or when an extra leap day has to be added every four years. The watch automatically accommodates all these variations.
Still regarded today as a milestone in watchmaking, the Da Vinci Chronograph Perpetual Calendar was made of only 81 cleverly arranged parts. A conventional perpetual calendar for a pocket watch has over 200 parts, and each of its displays is separately set with push buttons. On the IWC perpetual calendar, a simple turn of the crown advances all the displays – a first in the industry.
If there’s one person who can take credit for these pioneering feats, it would be Kurt Klaus. The former IWC watchmaking head has contributed to many innovations at the Swiss watch brand for over four decades, but he is best known for developing the Da Vinci Chronograph Perpetual Calendar.
Officially retired in 1999, the talented watchmaker has continued to develop and refine the perpetual calendar. Klaus guided the integration of the calendar module into a movement in IWC’s 5000 calibre family, culminating in the first perpetual calendar in IWC’s Portugieser collection. Launched in 2003, this watch showed a more accurate moon phase and a patented double moon display, with the moon phase as seen from the northern and southern hemispheres.
Klaus also played a key role in designing IWC’s first perpetual calendar with digital displays for the date and month. This was the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, introduced in 2009.
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IWC’s current perpetual calendar models still bear Klaus’ fingerprints, including the one with enhanced moon-phase accuracy of 577.5 years. The timepieces showcased here come from IWC’s three main lines – the Pilot, Portugieser and Portofino. They display a range of colours – perfect for Christmas. The perpetual calendars are also a tribute to Klaus’ legacy and the man himself – who just turned 90 in October.
Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44
The aforementioned perpetual calendar in the Portugieser line was essentially an improved version of the one Klaus first developed. This model has been completely reworked and refined – and the result is the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44, which is available in four variations: 18 carat white gold and a horizon blue dial; 18 carat white gold and a dune-coloured dial; 18 carat Armor Gold and Obsidian black dial; and 18 carat Armor Gold and a silver moon dial.
Armor Gold is a specialised type of gold that IWC has developed. It is much harder and more wear-resistant than conventional gold. Obsidian is formed from cooling lava and has a shiny, hard and dark look.
The horizon-blue-dial model is paired with a matching light-blue calfskin strap by Italian luxury leather specialist Santoni, while the obsidian-black-dial watch is worn with a Santoni black alligator strap.
As the name suggests, the updated watches are housed in a fairly large 44 mm wide case. The most notable in the design and refinement overhaul, the case sports a slimmer case ring and slender side profile. Combined with the box-glass sapphire crystals on the front and back, which allows an even better view of the iconic Portugieser design cues, the new construction makes the timepieces especially light and elegant, despite the overall size.
A particular highlight is the elaborately crafted dials. The key to their extraordinary visual depths is the application of 15 layers of transparent lacquer, which is fine-ground and then polished to a high gloss finish.
All four watches showcase IWC’s signature double moon display, which shows the moon as it can be seen from the northern and southern hemispheres. It is accurate to 577.5 years.
The watches are powered by an in-house movement fitted with an improved escapement that offers better protection against magnetic fields. The automatic Pellaton winding system features components made of virtually wear-free zirconium oxide ceramic, while the oscillating mass is made of solid gold. The movement boasts a power reserve of seven days.
Price: S$64,500 (obsidian black dial), S$65,900 (horizon blue dial)
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar with Racing Green Dial
Since it first appeared in the Big Pilot’s line in 2006, the perpetual calendar has been the most significant complication in the collection. The iconic watch has appeared in many iterations – in stainless steel, precious metals and performance materials such as ceramic and ceratanium; as well as many dial colours.
Ceratanium is ceramised titanium. It is as tough and almost as light as titanium, and as scratch-resistant as ceramic.
With the latest Big Pilot’s Perpetual Calendar, the IWC perpetual calendar is available for the first time in a 46.2 mm stainless steel case with a racing green dial, in sunray finish. The complication runs on an in-house automatic movement equipped with a Pellaton winding system, with seven days’ power reserve.
Price: S$50,000
Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe in White Ceramic
Standing out in a 46.6 mm white ceramic case, this model’s colour, specified as “IWC Lake Tahoe”, is inspired by white uniforms and the winter landscape around freshwater Lake Tahoe, located between California and Nevada in the United States. A mountainous terrain, Lake Tahoe is close to the flight school made famous in the movie Top Gun. Peering out of the case is a pitch-black dial matched with black hands coated in Super-LumiNova.
The same movement that powers the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar with racing green dial also powers the TOP GUN Lake Tahoe in white ceramic. The watch is paired with a white textured rubber strap.
Price: S$59,500
The Portofino Perpetual Calendar
This model comes in 18 carat 5N gold and stainless steel – the first Portofino with a perpetual calendar in steel. With a case of only 40 mm in diameter, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar is the smallest perpetual calendar in IWC’s catalogues. The complication runs on an in-house movement with the Pellaton winding system; the movement has a power reserve of 60 hours.
The gold Portofino Perpetual Calendar has a silver-plated dial with gold-plated hands and appliques. It is fitted with a blue strap made of calf leather.
Price: S$46,700
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