Breguet’s 250-year journey of innovation
Something remarkable happens when the brand draws on its illustrious heritage connected to the golden age of aviation, culminating in the creation of two exquisite chronographs
THIS year, Breguet celebrates a landmark anniversary: the 250th year since Abraham-Louis Breguet founded his workshop in Paris in 1775. Renowned as one of horology’s most visionary pioneers, he is credited with inventions such as the tourbillon and the Breguet overcoil; he also pioneered escapement designs that have shaped the evolution of watchmaking.
In honour of the brand’s illustrious legacy, Breguet has introduced the highly anticipated Type XX Chronographe reference 2075, available in two versions.
The first features a striking black dial in anodised aluminium, limited to just 250 pieces; the second showcases a meticulously crafted solid silver dial.
Both models are powered by the high-performance, 5 Hertz calibre 728, introduced by Breguet in 2023. This is a significant milestone, as these are the first manually wound iterations of this calibre, encased in the company’s signature gold.
The black-dial version is equipped with the calibre 7279, featuring a 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock; the silver-dial model boasts the calibre 7278, with a 30-minute counter at the same position.
Discreetly nestled between 7 and 8 o’clock, the “Ag925” inscription subtly signals that the watch’s dial is made from noble sterling silver. Distinctive as well is the inclusion of a tachymeter scale, enabling precise speed measurement over a set distance.
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A flyback function enables the wearer to reset the chronograph instantly with a single push of the pusher at 4 o’clock. A small seconds display resides at 9 o’clock.
The intricate workings of the movement are visible through the transparent case-back, where a handcrafted engraving depicts the iconic Breguet 19 aircraft in full flight, tracing the historic 1930 route between Europe and North America.
The contrast of frost-finished landmasses against the sleek Atlantic Ocean enhances the watch’s compelling narrative.
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In homage to the pioneering spirit of Louis Breguet (the great-great-grandson of the brand’s founder and a distinguished aircraft manufacturer in his own right), Breguet crafted the black-dial version of the Type XX 2075 from Duralumin, a first in the brand’s collection.
Louis Breguet had been the first to use this innovative material, an alloy containing 95 per cent aluminium, in aircraft construction. A subtle “Al” inscription between 7 and 8 o’clock discreetly signifies the use of this pioneering metal, a detail that reveals itself upon close examination.
To replicate the deep black hue of the historic 1955 model, Breguet uses advanced anodisation technology, creating a thick, resistant oxide layer inspired by aerospace industry innovations. This process ensures exceptional durability and enhanced legibility, exemplifying Breguet’s commitment to cutting-edge craftsmanship.
The second version remains faithful to the original No1780 model, distinguished by its elegant, vertically brushed solid-silver dial. Offering a subtle, sophisticated brilliance, this dial highlights the timeless elegance that defines Breguet’s aesthetic.
From the cockpit to the wrist
Beyond their striking designs, these two chronographs with flyback function tell a compelling story that honours the pioneering spirit and ingenuity that have shaped aviation history.
They pay tribute to Abraham-Louis Breguet, the visionary watchmaker who founded the brand; his great-great-grandson Louis Breguet; and the bold aviators Dieudonne Costes and Maurice Bellonte, the first to fly from Paris to New York.
The pair’s remarkable achievement, completed in just over 37 hours between Sep 1 and 2, 1930, continues to inspire a legacy of courage, innovation and relentless pursuit of excellence.
Their aircraft, a Breguet 19TR Super Bidon – named for its sizable fuel tank – was famously decorated with large question marks on each side of the fuselage.
These timepieces draw inspiration from an iconic “civil” model introduced by Breguet in 1955, identified by the individual serial number 1780: a symbol of the brand’s commitment to technical innovation and reverence for its storied past.
In the early 1950s, the French Air Force launched a tender for a chronograph wristwatch for its pilots, codenamed Type 20. Breguet emerged as one of the winning manufacturers, supplying a series of precision chronographs that met the demanding requirements of military aviation.
The year 1952 marked the birth of Breguet’s instrument watch: available in two military versions – Type 20 for the Air Force and Type XX for Naval Aviation – as well as numerous civilian variants.
These models exemplify Breguet’s pioneering role in creating highly precise, functional timepieces that continue to define the brand’s legacy of excellence in horology and aeronautical history.
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