Franck Muller dwells on the mystery of time

JUST as the Oscars symbolise excellence in film, the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve represents the highest accolade in watchmaking.

This November, everyone at Franck Muller – and watch enthusiasts worldwide – will be eagerly awaiting whether the Round Triple Mystery in rose gold will claim the prestigious award in the Ladies’ Complication (Complication Pour Femme) category.

Known for its highly exclusive technical complications – many of which are proprietary innovations developed entirely in-house at its Geneva manufacture, Watchland – Franck Muller has earned a reputation for pushing horological boundaries with over 50 world premieres and patents.

Enthusiasts of the brand will understand why the Round Triple Mystery deserves its place among the best.

The concept behind the watch, as is the case with many of the most groundbreaking ideas, was born by chance.

The original Mystery was created when the brand’s namesake co-founder Franck Muller set out to design a timepiece that challenged conventional watchmaking and the very perception of time. It all started during a business trip, where a profound cross-cultural encounter left a deep impression on him.

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Inspired by cultures that embrace time at one’s own pace – perceptions where time is fluid and unbound – Muller sought to capture this essence in a watch.

The first Mystery watch paid homage to the freedom and mystique of time itself. Instead of traditional hands, the watch featured a single rotating disc displaying just the hour. Two years later came the Double Mystery, with two rotating discs indicating the hours and minutes.

The rebirth of the Mystery

This year’s Round Triple Mystery – as its name suggests – introduces a third rotating disc for the seconds, adding even greater depth to the passage of time.

At first glance, the dial appears to float, its display free of conventional hands. But a closer look reveals the three discs, rotating tirelessly to show the passage of time.

The construction of the Round Triple Mystery – to have three fully independent discs without compromising precision – represents a remarkable technical feat.

Integrating the seconds disc posed a significant challenge due to its rapid movement; this demanded exceptional lightness to ensure optimal performance and energy efficiency.

Weighing just 0.052 grams – with the arrow indicator at 0.002 grams, the diamond at 0.003 grams and the skeleton pastille at 0.047 grams – this component was meticulously engineered to rotate effortlessly without disrupting performance.

After extensive research and testing, Franck Muller’s engineers selected aluminium for the seconds disc, playing to its lightness with strength. Machining such a fragile component requires precise craftsmanship: Each bridge measures only 0.3 mm in width, making the disc a true marvel of manufacturing.

Adding the seconds disc also greatly increases the energy required by the movement. To address this, the central seconds disc has been skeletonised, reducing its weight to enable smooth operation while also creating a focal point within the timepiece. The disc is further embellished with a triangular-cut diamond that functions as a seconds indicator.

Beauty from all angles

The central plate, with a single diamond set in a geometric pattern reminiscent of a spirograph, emphasises the watch’s theme of rotation.

A spirograph is a geometric drawing tool that allows users to create intricate, hypnotic patterns and designs by guiding pens through a series of plastic gears and wheels with variously shaped holes – bringing a sense of fluidity and endless motion to the design.

That intricate geometry echoes the continuous motion of the hour, minutes and seconds discs, embodying the rhythmic dance of time itself.

Every facet of this design amplifies the diamond-encrusted case, emphasising the interplay of motion and light; with each rotation, new angles and reflections unfold, celebrating the cyclical nature of time while showcasing the artistry and craftsmanship behind the timepiece.

Apart from its technical beauty, the Round Triple Mystery is aesthetically stunning, masterfully combining sculptural boldness with mechanical finesse.

The 39 mm watch is available in either 18-karat rose gold or white gold. There are four variations in total, each with a unique gemstone used for the triangular indicators: diamond, emerald, ruby and blue sapphire.

The dial is adorned with 232 brilliant-cut diamonds, arranged in a hypnotic spiral that cleverly draws the eye towards the three indicators. Each gemstone follows its own path, transforming the passage of time into a celestial dance.

For an extra touch of brilliance, there’s also a variation featuring a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds.