Zenith plays on core strength

ZENITH continues to play to its strengths in these trying times, rolling out only new variations of the brand's renowned automatic high-frequency chronographs.

In the Chronomaster Original, Zenith says it has finally produced a successor worthy to the Zenith A386 which is powered by the legendary El Primero calibre, the world's first automatic high-frequency integrated chronograph movement. For 50 years, the A386 has been widely regarded as the first among equals in the world of chronographs.

And Zenith has not been standing still. It has upped the game with even higher performance chronographs capable of ticking time with an accuracy of 1/10th and 1/100th of a second.

Chronomaster Original

ZENITH'S A386 has spun off many variations but none was a true heir of the original model, which has been hailed as one of the true great chronographs of the last 50 years. None till the roll-out of the Chronomaster Original this year, according to the brand.

Why did the earlier versions fall short - and what makes this latest one a worthy successor?

Till the Chronomaster Original came along, Zenith had produced renditions of the A386 in materials other than stainless steel; the most recent versions, issued in 2019 to mark the 50th anniversary of the El Primero - the movement that powered the A386 - were in gold. But as Zenith acknowledges, it's a steel re-edition that collectors and chronograph fans have been eagerly waiting for.

The Chronomaster Original not only comes in steel, it's at first glance almost identical with the A386.

The 38 millimetres wide round bezel-less steel case with a raised and domed crystal, the pump-style chronograph pushers, the faceted lugs and the mix of radial brushed and polished surfaces throughout - they are indistinguishable from the A386 that it's based on.

Only the steel bracelets are clearly different. The open "ladder" design of the A386 bracelet - which was designed in the 1960s - has given way to solid links that are sumptuously chamfered and decorated in the same fashion as the case in the Chronomaster Original. While the most visually distinctive design element of the A386 - its dial, in particular the emblematic trim-colour chronograph registers in shades of grey and blue, the trapezoid date window at 4.30 and the red chronograph second hand - is passed down to the Chronomaster Original, there are a few subtle updates to match the boost in performance of the latter.

The black inner scale around the dial of the A386, which was used to calculate the time spent working using a 1/100th of an hour time division system, finds a new purpose in the Chronomaster Original, which has a 1/10th of a second chronograph hand that rotates around the dial in 10 seconds, totalling 100 measurable time units.

The tachymeter scale on the outer circumference on the dial of the A386 is replaced in the new watch by a 1/10th of a second chronograph scale so that elapsed time can be measured and read in precise fractions of a second. And for instantaneous, precise reading of the 10th of a second, a straight, red-lacquered hand now substitutes for the paddle-shaped seconds hand of the A386.

The logo is also updated to the more contemporary script Zenith uses today.

Beneath the dial and visible through the sapphire display case back of the Chronomaster Original is the latest version of the El Primer movement, the El Primero 3600, which beats at a high frequency of 5 hertz (36,000 vibrations per hour) to offer a 1/10th of a second indication. The movement has an extended power reserve of 60 hours.

The Chronomaster Original is available in a steel case framing a "reverse panda" black dial with silver chronograph registers, and in an 18K rose gold variation with the tri-colour dial.

Price: S$12,400 to S$27,800

Chronomaster Original (Ladies)

BY ADDING colours and diamonds to it, Zenith has transformed the Chronomaster Original into a pair of timepieces that appeal to "women seeking a lavish chronograph or men who appreciate its flamboyance".

"The new Chronomaster Original (Ladies) adorned with precious stones and a playfully chic use of the iconic tri-colour dial are definite showstoppers," Zenith says.

No major modifications were needed for the high performance self-winding complication that's powered by the latest generation of the famous El Primero 3600 movement, which beats at a high frequency of 5 hertz (36,000 vibrations per hour versus the common 28,800 vph) to offer a 1/10th of a second chronograph function. The new highfrequency chronograph has retained the 38-millimetres-wide case shape and size of the regular model.

The Chronomaster Original(Ladies) model features 56 expertly set brilliant white diamonds on the lugs. "Rather than take away from the instantly recognisable Chronomaster Original silhouette with its bezel-less constructions and geometric forms, the gem-setting enhances its allure with just the right touch of audacity," Zenith says.

Both versions of the Chronomaster Original Ladies are paired with sensual and soft calfskin leather straps in light blue or taupe with tone-on-tone stitching, matching the colours of their dials. The dials are multicoloured mother-of-pearl or taupe tri-colour - and both are set with 9 diamonds for the hour markers.

The reinterpreted Chronomaster Original timepieces were unveiled in early October at the first "Meet the DREAMHERS" physical event in Madrid, Spain, where guests were invited to discover a group of accomplished and outspoken women known as the Zenith DREAMHERS.

Launched in 2020, Meet the DREAMHERS is a platform "that gives visionary, independent and inspirational women from all walks of life a space to share their voices and passion with like-minded women who are also reading their stars against all odds".

The event in Madrid featured a panel discussion about women in the 21st century and the need for change towards more inclusiveness and equal rights. Among the Zenith DREAMHERS speaking at the inaugural event were contemporary artist Teresa Juevas, chef Amandine Chaignot, professional ballerina Precious Adams and former Miss Switzerland and medical professional Laetitia Guarino.

Price S$18,400

Chronomaster Boutique Edition

THE recent opening of the Zenith Manufacture Boutique in Switzerland is momentous in many ways for the brand. For one, it's Zenith's "one and only" store in its home country.

What's more, the Manufacture Boutique is most symbolic for the brand because it's located in Zenith's factory in the Swiss municipality of Le Locle. So to celebrate the opening of the new boutique, what can be more appropriate than to launch a boutique-exclusive special edition of the Chronomaster Original.

The watch combines the design codes of Zenith's 1969 El Primero steel chronographs and its latest high-frequency chronograph movement, which measures and displays elapsed time in 1/10th fractions of a second.

Of all Zenith timepieces and movements, the El Primero steel chronographs and high-frequency movements are the most identified with the brand, as well as the most admired for design and performance.

The Boutique Edition features a striking blue dial, which is matched with silver chronograph registers to give a historically inspired and yet totally original look. The watch comes in a steel bracelet or blue calfskin leather strap and is available at all Zenith boutiques and the online shop.

Price: S$12,400 (leather strap), S$13,100 (steel bracelet)

Chronomaster Sport

POWERED by Zenith's latest El Primero 3600 movement, the Chronomaster Sport is capable of time measurements with an accuracy of 1/10th of a second.

But what really sets this new high frequency automatic chronograph watch apart from its predecessors - and marks the start of a new era for quintessential Zenith sporty-chic chronograph - is its ultra-readable 1/10th of a second display etched directly on its black ceramic bezel, the only watch to do so.

The Chronomaster Sport comes in a black or white dial with both featuring the signature El Primero tri-colour chronograph registers in blue, anthracite and light grey - just like the A386 from 1969.

Each of the counters is graduated for an intuitive and instantaneous reading of the chronograph.

The watch has an integrated steel bracelet similar to those conceived by Gay Freres, who supplied many of Zenith's metal bracelets in the past.

A textured cordura-effect rubber strap with a steel deployment buckle is also available as an option.

Price S$13,800 (rubber strap), S$14,500 (steel bracelet), S$30,800 (rose gold)

Defy Extreme

A NEW collection and "supercharged" extension of Zenith's current Defy line, Defy Extreme is characterised by "its sharp titanium case, faceted and carved like a boulder in a story", says Sebastian Robert, a designer with the brand. "We wanted to make the Defy design even more futuristic and assertive".

The Defy Extreme chronograph retains some of the distinctive traits of the earliest Defy models of the 1960s, like the A3642. In particular, the angular case and its faceted bezel.

But the new supercharged Defy has a larger 45-millimetres-wide case, sharper lines, more pronounced edges and an overall profile that exudes robustness, resilience and an inclination to explore new horizons.

Among the Defy Extreme's most striking features is the 12-sided ring placed under the bezel, which reaches down to the 12-sided case back.

The design is reinforced by the addition of components protecting the pushers and screw-down crown. Also, the watch is more comfortable to wear despite its size - and more durable, with water resistance of 200 metres.

The matte titanium and matte titanium with rose gold versions of the timepiece have an entirely matte-finished micro-blasted surface, which recalls a monolith subtly and uniformly weathered by the elements over time. The titanium variant in blue accents is finished to bring out the different facets of the metal with polished satin-brushed and matte surfaces.

The dial is conceived to make it easy to read the time, while allowing a clear view of the 1/100th of a second chronograph movement, which has 2 escapements beating at 36,000 vibrations per hour for the timekeeping part, and 360,000 vph for the chronograph. The applied oversized and slightly overlapping chronograph counters emphasise volume and legibility. The hands and the applied hour markers are extra-large and heavily coated with Super-LumiNova to offer readability even in the darkest situations.

Each Defy Extreme timepiece comes with 3 different straps equipped with quick strap-change mechanisms: A micro-blasted or polished and satin-brushed titanium bracelet, a rubber strap with a folding buckle matching the case and - a first for Zenith - a Velcro strap that can be easily adjusted on the go and is waterproof.

Price: S$26,300 (titanium), S$32,100 (titanium & rose gold)