White-hot allure of white wine

WHAT white wines for the new year? Chardonnay remains the most popular varietal by far, and I am encouraged by the increasing popularity of the simpler French Chardonnay wines over the past year. Other popular whites include Sauvignon Blanc, the varietal made famous by Cloudy Bay.

Judging from last year's sales performance, Riesling also appeared to be increasing in popularity, as more wine consumers find the light sweetness of the Kabinetts well counteracted by the delicious acidity. Indeed for some wine critics, Riesling is their preferred varietal, their battle-cry being "ABC" - anything but Chardonnay! Then there is Gewurztraminer, the "Lychee grape", known best through the wines of Alsace, and a wine, which I am told by a Gewurztraminer fan, goes well with spicy foods, including curry. Other less commonly seen varietals are Tokay Pinot Gris, also mainly from Alsace; Chenin Blanc, the grape of the Loire; and Gruner Veltliner, the national varietal of Austria.

Prejudice and personal tastes aside, white grapes offer a greater range of taste and styles than red. And they are just as well or better, being in most cases higher in acidity. The problem is to get past the colour.