LOOKING for a reasonably mature wine to drink with dinner, I came across my last bottle of Cims de Porrerra Classic 1996. At 17 years of age it should be quite mature. It had been some time since I last drank one and it would be interesting to see how this 1996, the first vintage of Cims had matured. It was very enjoyable, its colour showing just a tinge of brown against a deep red.

There was an aroma of fresh ripe fruit, and the palate showed surprisingly good freshness and the taste of well-ripened fruit. The wine was full and lush, without much tannin. I thought had begun to lose some of its fruit, though, and true enough the next day the thinness of the palate confirmed this. This was the last of a case of 12, bought locally in June 1999, soon after release at $73 per bottle, not exactly modest in price.

Bodega Cims de Porrerra was founded in 1996 as a joint venture between Jose Louis Perez Verdu, Llis Llach the musician and the Porrera Cooperative. The winemaker was Sarah Perez, Jose Louis's daughter.