TAKE EVERYTHING YOU KNOW, OR imagine, about Kyoto. The heritage. The culture. The craftsmanship. The anal-retentive tea ceremony guy who takes forever to make a matcha cuppa. Put them all into a glass and swirl. Add a touch of modernism. Subtract cynicism. Pour carefully, and watch the contents take on the shape of Roku Kyoto, LXR Hotels & Resorts – a feat of design, nature and custom that any ancient Japanese mountain would be proud to have at its foothills.

The latter’s name is Takagamine Sanzan – the three mountains of Takagamine – and it shapes a romantic story of shoguns and artists, lovingly told by Roku Kyoto in every corner of its finely-crafted premises. Serenity-seekers flock to this tranquil luxury resort just a 30-minute drive north of the city centre. It’s not far, but as the city disappears and nature takes over, you feel like you’re in a different world – or even time – altogether.

An origin story

From lacquer artworks in the reception area to decorative kyo-karakami paper accents in every room, everything is a nod to the more than 400 years since the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu gifted the land around Takagamine – a favourite getaway for the nobility – to the genre-defining artist Hon’ami Koetsu in 1615. Koetsu gathered like-minded artists and artisans and built a thriving  community of 17th century creatives. He himself was credited as the force behind the influential Rinpa school of Japanese painting, while the village itself was known for nurturing some of the best craftsmen in Kyoto.

In the 1950s, the area became the Shozan Kyoto Resort, named after the Nishino kimono maker and fabric dyer Shozan. Its founder, Masao Matsuyama, built it as a place for the public to enjoy, and today, you can still explore the 11.6 hectares of lush greenery dotted with the  original historical buildings – housing restaurants and a souvenir shop. A stunning Japanese garden takes pride of place, and now, it’s Roku Kyoto’s turn to keep the faith. 

Contemporary heritage

Opened only in 2021, it blends seamlessly with its older neighbours. If you didn’t know better, you’d think its muted yellow ochre and blond wood facade had always been there. But it’s brand new. 

“It’s about remaining true to the heritage and culture of the destination,” says  Nils-Arne Schroeder, vice-president, luxury, Hilton, Asia Pacific. Roku Kyoto is the first Asia-Pacific property of the group’s LXR Hotels & Resorts. “The entire experience is designed to bring about a sense of connection with the natural surroundings, merging craftsmanship, design, wellness and gastronomy.”

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Behind the facade are stylishly understated modern buildings all conceptualised by BLINK Design, but Takagamine is the real architect here. Every line, every curve is shaped to show off the mountain in the best light. A walk from the main building to the restaurant  takes you through an open courtyard with a stunning backdrop of lush forests, mirrored on the surface of a vast water basin. Wake up in the morning in your premier deluxe room and there it is again, a majestic sight right outside your window, radiating sun and burnished Autumn reds. Dip or swim in the glistening, 25-metre outdoor thermal pool filled with natural onsen water – the only one in Kyoto – and you’ll linger not just for the warmth but to bask in the view.

For those who prefer an intimate soak, the Garden Deluxe room is its own miniature ryokan, with a private garden and bath that draws steaming hot natural spring water at the turn of a tap. It’s a good idea to open the sliding doors to let some cold air in. You create your own outdoor onsen vibe and avoid sous vide-ing yourself by accident at the same time. 

Dining as art

All appetites converge on Tenjin – just one restaurant but with multiple options for every taste, at any time of the day. The best view is from the outdoor terrace, which overlooks the gentle babbling waters of its namesake river Tenjin. Imagine the washi paper makers of old plying their craft along its banks as you savour seasonal morsels inspired by nature and art, crafted by chef de cuisine Akira Taniguchi. 

His culinary tour de force can be experienced nightly at the counter-only Chef’s Table, where you sit under a beguiling paper umbrella lantern made by local artisans as the performance unfolds. Fine French steeped in Japanese aesthetics defines the flavours of a multi-course meal where snow crab and taro meet lemongrass-infused bisque; classic squab and demi-glace are imbued with the heat of sansho pepper; and a signature ‘vegetable garden’ showcases homegrown greens in a dressing of creamy mentaiko. For a dramatic finish, rich chocolate truffles are presented, hidden in a pile of fragrant smoked leaves.

Cultural experience

You may not feel compelled to leave the resort, since it has the magical ability to put you in a state of zen, wanting to sit in the calming tea house and sip on cleansing brews all day. But the resort has curated a comprehensive range of excursions for those who want to deep dive into Japanese craft and culture. There are workshops in papermaking, ceramic art or kintsugi, temple visits and even a tour of the gardens in the Shozan resort. But for food enthusiasts, a yuba-making (and eating) experience is the way to go.

A 10-minute taxi ride from the hotel takes you to Shozankaku Matsuyama honten, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by mountains and forest. A tiny little yuba factory is in full swing with steam furiously rising from its roof as vats of soya milk bubble and form skins on the surface that are quickly peeled off and left to dry in sheets like beancurd laundry. These sheets will later be served in a centuries-old ryotei just a short walk away.

Guiding you is your irrepressible host Yoshiyuki Matsuyama – a former professional football player and third-generation owner of the ryotei. It used to be a ryokan with its own onsen run by his grandfather before the family switched to making yuba 30 years ago. Yuba is synonymous with Kyoto, and the flavour can’t be replicated elsewhere because of the quality of the water from the mountains. Besides trying your hand at making yuba, you get to taste it in every course of a kaiseki meal – from starter, with sashimi, served in clear dashi and its signature wooden tub of silky layers bathed in hot soya milk. 

Spa therapy 

A cleansing meal followed by a spa ritual couldn’t be a better plan, especially when you end up at Roku Spa. And they mean it when they say ritual as you toss scraps of washi paper over your left and right shoulder and drink spring water to purify yourself before your treatment starts. Balance your elements with a therapeutic Tenjingawa stone massage, where stones are soaked in the nearby Tenjin river and heated before they glide over your tense muscles , while you surrender to a heady mix of warmth and essential oil. 

The ultimate luxury

If space is the ultimate luxury, Roku Kyoto is it. Quiet, contemplative and with nature as your guide, it’s a side of Kyoto you’ve not quite seen before, and one you won’t forget.

The writer was a guest of Roku Kyoto.