Patek Philippe’s grand complications steal the show

PATEK PHILIPPE FLEXED ALL ITS muscles at Watches and Wonders 2026 with its roll-out of three innovative grand complications – a category in which it has few peers – including its first wristwatch showing the times of sunrise and sunset.

It also showcased four limited editions marking the 50th anniversary of its iconic Nautilus. Counting updates and new colours, Patek Philippe unveiled a total of 24 models at the recently concluded mega watch fair in Geneva. 

Here are just some of the novelties collectors will be eyeing.

Ref 6105G-001 Celestial Sunrise and Sunset

You can tell when the sun rises and sets just by looking out the window, but this complication timer with six patent applications gives you the precise time and detailed indications – even through seasonal changes such as from summer to winter.

Patek Philippe has always had a strong tradition of creating complications with astronomical displays, but very few models indicate the times of sunrise and sunset. The new grand complication, which flaunts a bold modern design, took five years to develop.

The hours and minutes of sunrise and sunset – as observed from Geneva – are shown on a large dial accommodated by a 47 mm 18K white gold case with satin-brushed finishes. Also on display are the sky chart, angular movement of the moon, moon phases and date.

The watch is worn with a black strap in an ultra-resistant composite material.

Ref 5840P-001 Cubitus Perpetual Calendar Skeleton

Patek Philippe continues to enrich its Cubitus collection with its first grand complication – a perpetual calendar. The Cubitus, recognised by its square case, was rolled out in 2024. 

Housed in a 45 mm platinum case, the new perpetual calendar stands out for its open-worked design, where the pierce parts subtly reveal the complexity of its mechanical heart and the painstakingly crafted finishing touches.

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The architecture of the open-worked movement, with its monochrome design, was also developed in line with the Cubitus’s distinctive style. A first for a Patek Philippe movement, the monochrome treatment brings out the elegance of the fully open-worked construction.

The new timer is also the first model in Patek Philippe’s regular collection to feature the moon phase with a large moon mechanism, for stunning effect. The watch is paired with a navy blue strap with cream stitching.

Ref 5322G Calatrava Alarm 

Patek Philippe has dropped its Pilot Alarm Travel Time, which combines an alarm and a two-time-zone function, for a pure 24-hour alarm ticker. The new Calatrava Alarm watch still has a date indication, but it has discarded the travel time feature. Instead, the focus is on the alarm, so wearers will never forget an appointment or other reminder.

While most alarm timers have a hammer that strikes the inside of the case-back to produce a metallic humming sound, the Calatrava Alarm chimes elegantly. Its hammer, like that of a minute repeater, strikes a classic acoustic gong coiled around the movement.

Instead of the functional look of the Pilot Alarm Travel Time, highlighted by a Pilot-style 42.2 mm case with an aviator-inspired design, the Calatrava Alarm exudes a modern vibe. It is ensconced in a 41 mm white gold case decorated with the Clous de Paris, or “hobnail” guilloche motif, which is found in some of the better-known Calatrava models.

The watch comes in a lacquered blue or green dial, both evoking the modernity and style of the dials Patek Philippe introduced in 2022. The dial stands out with its black gradient rim and granular texture, with delicately applied ornate Arabic numerals.

The Calatrava Alarm is available in two interchangeable straps. The model with the blue dial features a navy blue composite strap; the green model has a green alligator leather strap. The second strap, for both watches, is in beige calfskin.

Ref 5249R-001 Hours and Minutes on Demand

Push the button at the 2 o’clock position and this watch from Patek Philippe’s Rare Handcrafts collection comes alive – not just telling you the time but also entertaining with the story of The Crow and the Fox.

In the 17th-century French fable, a crow is perched on a tree with a large piece of cheese in its beak. A fox comes along and flatters the crow by saying it must have a lovely voice. The crow opens its beak to sing and the cheese falls out. The cunning fox snatches it. The moral: Beware of flattery, which often has a hidden motive.

The horological feat depicting The Crow and the Fox is already on show in a pocket watch with an automaton in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva. The automaton is a standalone device that adds an animation to the timepiece.

The 52 mm pocket watch, unveiled in 1958, presents the animals amid lush greenery. They are roused on cue to indicate the time on two sectors set along an arc. The watch’s movement incorporates a system of double-retrograde display on demand that lets the fox and crow show the hours and minutes, respectively.

The new Hours and Minutes on Demand timepiece is a wristwatch adaptation of the pocket watch, making it Patek Philippe’s first automaton wristwatch. When called on, the fox indicates the hours with its paw and muzzle, while the minute hand – its tip decorated with a piece of cheese – drops from the crow’s beak to indicate the minutes on a graduated scale. 

When the time has been read and the push-button released, the retrograde indicators return to their resting positions.

The fascinating spectacle takes place on a tinted brown dial with an opaline finish, resting on an 18K gold plate. The dial is framed by a 43 mm rose gold case. As with all Patek Philippe “officer-style” timers, the new ticker’s sapphire crystal case-back is protected by a hinge dust cover. The Crow and Fox timepiece is worn on an alligator leather strap in shiny brown.

1976-2026 Nautilus 

Patek Philippe has come almost full circle in producing the four limited edition timepieces that herald the Nautilus’ 50th anniversary. While the anniversary models place the sporty elegance of the iconic model in a new light, they also retain the essence of their design.

Three of the watches house the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 – the very movement launched in 1977, the year after the Nautilus collection was unveiled. This keeps the case trim and elegant.

Of these, two are 18K white gold wristwatches in large-size (jumbo) 41 mm – one with a matching white gold bracelet (limited to 2,000 pieces), the other with a composite strap (limited to 1,000). The third is a full platinum version in size 38 mm (limited to 2,000). All three timers display only the hours and minutes, respecting the original Nautilus’ pure design principles. 

The fourth anniversary watch is a nod to the disruptive design of the Nautilus when it was launched – a surprising Nautilus desk watch in white gold (limited to 100), powered by a hand-wound movement with eight days’ power reserve.