China wines – a rising star in the global wine industry
Can they match up with their European counterparts?
[SINGAPORE] From being eyed suspiciously whenever it appeared on a wine list to being actively sought out today, Chinese wine is having its moment. One might even say it’s long overdue, given how winemaking in China can be traced back more than 4,000 years to the Han Dynasty, before being boosted by modern techniques introduced by Europeans in the late 19th century.
It can be said that the country’s contemporary wine industry officially began in 1892, with the founding of Changyu winery in Shandong, which is still operating today. But it has taken more than a century for it to finally achieve global recognition.
China’s star began to rise perhaps in the last two years when wineries made their presence felt at important industry events. In 2024, ProWine Shanghai attracted 65 Chinese wine exhibitors with nine masterclasses. Nearly 200 of China’s top wineries also showed up at Wynn Macau’s annual Wynn Signature Chinese Wine Awards in 2023.
In Singapore, wine club 67 Pall Mall’s Chinese wine masterclasses have been drawing strong response. In addition, this year’s Singapore edition of Vinexpo Asia saw the debut of a China wine pavilion with 10 co-exhibitors and one lead exhibitor. There was no Chinese wine pavilion in the previous 2023 event.
Meanwhile, local distributor Ang Leong Huat has seen a 10 per cent increase in Chinese wine sales since Covid, while Restaurant Born’s head sommelier Leslie Loo notes that more guests are curious and willing to try Chinese wines offered by the glass. Yvonne Chiong Mougin, global sales director of Ao Yun Winery in Yunnan province, says that growing interest comes not only from “neighbouring countries with overseas Chinese communities, but also from Europe, North America, and more recently, Denmark and Estonia”.
Grape varieties
Top wine-producing regions include Xinjiang, Ningxia, Yunnan, Shanxi, Hebei and Shandong. While classic grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay are widely grown, the French Cabernet Gernischt and Marselan are also thriving and earning a reputation as being signature to China. The Marselan, originally from Languedoc-Roussillon, is now very much at home in the country.
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French winemakers are also producing wines in China – including Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) and LVMH’s Ao Yun – a sign that Chinese terroir is worthy of producing wines that bear the names of well-known French wineries.
Gerald Lu, director of wine bar Praelum and president of the Sommelier Association of Singapore, reports that pre-Covid, he offered just four or five Chinese wines and customers tried them out of curiosity. Now, that curiosity has evolved into more in-depth knowledge on the part of customers who ask questions about climate and terroir. He adds that wine trips to China organised for sommeliers are always popular, and he even has customers asking him to organise similar trips for them.
The big question: Can Chinese wines stand shoulder to shoulder with their European counterparts? Lu believes it’s not right to make the comparison since the Chinese wine industry only developed at pace in the 1990s. Still, vignerons are working hard to master the climate and terroir and are rapidly catching up. “There is a pioneering spirit, and a curiosity and willingness to develop varieties that others are not actively developing,” he says. “China is finding its niche and telling its story.”
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Tasting notes
(Note: Wines were opened 1.5 hours before tasting)
Silver Heights, Emma’s Reserve 2017, Ningxia. 14%
Located in Jin Shan, vivacious founder Emma Gao is Bordeaux-trained and her namesake, Emma’s Reserve, is a 50/50 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend. It is aged 24 months in new French oak barrels and produced only in great years.
It has delicious aromas of baked fruit, bell peppers, hibiscus and mulberry. The tannins are soft and silky, with an intense, layered mouthfeel and elegant finish – a fine complement to braised or grilled red meats.
Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Long Dai 2020, Shandong. 13.5%
Described as a “complex Chinese puzzle with French vision”, Long Dai from Qiu Shan Valley is a blend of 56 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 24 per cent Cabernet Franc and 20 per cent Marselan. It is aged 18 months in French oak.
With notes of spice, chocolate, black cherries and vanilla, this cool vintage wine displays classic Bordeaux-esque characteristics. The wine is enjoyable now but will age well. Pair with cheese, roast meats and beef stew.
Grace Vineyard, Chairman’s Reserve 2018, Shanxi. 14.9%
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, using premium berries aged in 500-litre French barrels. Grace Vineyard, founded in 1997 by Chan Chun Keung, is now helmed by his daughter Judy. Penangite Lee Yean Yean is the winemaker.
With roots in Taigu county, the Chairman’s Reserve from Shanxi and Ningxia has its own unique label reflecting each region.
Discover aromas of violets, red cherries, potpourri and bell peppers. With a textured and complex palate, this elegant wine has great potential. Pair with mushroom risotto, truffles or Peking duck.
Ao Yun 2015, Yunnan. 15%
A medley of grapes from the four villages of Adong, Shuori, Sinong and Xidang produces this blend of 79 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 21 per cent Cabernet Franc. Having made its debut in 2013, this is the first wine estate in the Himalayas.
There are lovely aromas of black fruit, spice and violets. The wine is juicy with flavours of chocolate and vanilla with a sweet spicy finish and good acidity. Another five years and this wine should begin to show its class. Savour it with game and Chinese liver sausage.
Helan Qingxue Vineyard, Jiabeilan Reserve 2017. 14.5%
Originating from the foot of the Helan Mountains, this wine is 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and aged 14 months in 70 per cent New French oak. The average age of the vines is 19 years.
Find intense aromas of cinnamon, baked spice, black plum and sweet candied fruit. It has medium acidity, with flavours of cocoa, vanilla and bell pepper. Enjoy it with Hokkien mee and dishes rich in soya sauce. The 2009 is known for its historic win at the 2011 Decanter World Wine Awards – which some say, was the catalyst for the growth of the Chinese wine industry.
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