Exploring ‘black’ champagne
Add Blanc de Noirs to your repertoire of bubbly
CHAMPAGNE is, without fail, the tipple of choice whenever the occasion calls for a celebratory toast. But what goes into that glass of bubbly?
Champagne is, traditionally, a blend of three grape varieties – Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. But champagne is not always a combination of these three. Blanc de Blancs are made of 100 per cent Chardonnay grapes, and Blanc de Noirs, made solely from the black grape varieties of Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier.
Why is champagne not red like a red or a rosé wine? While the grapes may be dark-skinned, the colour you see in the glass is still the colour of traditional champagne. The juice of the grape used is clear, and great skill is exercised during the pressing stage to ensure that the skin of the grape does not stain the juice, hence its clarity.
When grapes are crushed and soaked/macerated with their skins during the fermentation process, these dark colours leach into the liquid, giving it the characteristic hue of red wines.
When producing Blanc de Noirs, however, the winemaker separates the juice from the dark grape skins by pressing. The clear grape juice thus ferments separately and produces white sparkling wine. If you do notice any red colouration, it would have come from the dark-coloured grape skins.
It is often challenging to pinpoint the exact characteristics of a Blanc de Noirs champagne though, in general, it tends to display more red fruit notes.
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Several factors such as the vintage, vineyard location and the fermentation and ageing methods lead to the development of a particular style. The Cellar Master (Chef des Caves) is the maestro in orchestrating a Blanc de Noirs Champagne that is reflective of the terroir and the house style.
The most famous, and perhaps most prestigious, Blanc de Noirs is Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay. It comes from a single walled plot of Pinot Noir that is all of 0.68 hectares, slightly larger than a football field.
Another famed Blanc de Noirs is Bollinger’s Vieilles Vignes Francaises. It is famous because it is made from grape vines that survived the deadly phylloxera insect infestation that devastated the vineyards of France in the early 20th century. Today, production is at a mere 3,300 bottles (for the 2006 vintage), as only two plots of these original vines prevail.
Champagne Boizel Blanc de Noirs Brut
Located in Epernay, this recently refurbished house now boasts a lovely tasting room and renovated cellars. The family-run business behind Champagne Boizel is currently helmed by the sixth generation. Lovely aromas of black cherry, ripe apples, brioche and spice greet you on the nose.
This non-vintage Blanc de Noirs has lovely acidity with an intense mid-palate and a long finish. Made from grapes from the Premier Cru and Grand Cru sites from the Montagne de Reims sub-region, this champagne can be enjoyed with charcuterie. This also pairs well with white meats and mushrooms.
Champagne Bollinger PN VZ15 Brut
With the Vieilles Vignes Francaises produced in such limited quantities, the house of Bollinger recently launched its PN (Pinot Noir) series. This offering from the 2015 vintage uses grapes mainly from the village of Verzenay. Though still in its infancy, this bottle was bursting with aromas of baked fruit, cinnamon, smoke, brioche and toast.
Beautifully textured with a long finish, this champagne is sophistication and elegance in a glass. The label is easily distinguished with the large PN symbol.
Guillaume Selosse Blanc de Noirs “Largillier” Extra Brut Champagne
The son of pioneer grower Champagne maker Jacques Selosse has struck out on his own. This 100-per-cent Pinot Noir champagne had the darkest colour in this flight of five champagnes. An oxidative nose was evident (likely due to 36 months of élevage in barrel on lees), before opening up to aromas of baked fruit, apricot, pastry and honeysuckle. I was thinking of a freshly baked pear tart as I sipped this champagne.
This champagne is at a very nice drinking window. As the saying goes, the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree; I look forward to tasting more from Guillaume.
Champagne Billecart Salmon Clos Saint Hilaire Brut 2003
At 19 years of age, it was time to blow the dust off this 2003 Clos St Hilaire. A challenging year for champagne due to the unusually dry and hot summer, this was a fine display of honeysuckle, baked spice, dried apricot with nuances of toast, brioche and nougat.
Made from 100-per-cent Pinot Noir from one hectare of old vines planted in 1964 in Mareuil-sur-Ay, this one was a sophisticated and distinguished sip that is reaching its peak. This paired very well with a tempura dinner.
Champagne Joseph Perrier La Côte à Bras 2012
This single parcel in the Cumières was launched in 2007 by fifth-generation owner Jean-Claude Fourmon. Named La Côte à Bras Parcelle AH83, this is a zero-dosage champagne and is made 100 per cent from Pinot Noir. Displaying faint aromas of ripe apples, nougat with a touch of honey and wet stone, this champagne was extremely clean on the palate with lively acidity. This pale lemon-yellow champagne is in its infancy, and so the bottle needs time in the cellar. If you must have it now, pair this with fresh oysters and grilled seafood. Champagne Joseph Perrier, a favourite of Queen Victoria’s, is today run by Jean-Claude’s son, Benjamin.
All wines were purchased, or from the writer’s cellar.
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