A fresh look at Chablis

CHABLIS may not be on every wine lover’s radar, but it is an excellent alternative to the mainstay of white Burgundies. The prices of 2021 white burgundies which have recently come onto the market, have yet again surpassed those of the year before. Liv-Ex, a global marketplace for the trade, notes that the 2021s rose 25 per cent on average.

Perhaps, it is time we take a look at this Burgundian region located up in the north that continues to offer excellent wines at relatively affordable prices.

Chablis is the northernmost wine district in the Burgundy region of France. The Kimmeridge and Portlandian clay are what give Chablis its hallmark mineral flavours. This famously ancient soil comprises a distinctive mix of limestone, clay and fossilised oyster shells. High in acidity with linear textures, a glass of wine from the region of Chablis is quite different from one from the warm region of Beaune located 134 km to the south. 

Grown across four appellations – Petit Chablis, Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru – are 40 Premier Cru plots and just one Grand Cru Appellation, the last of which contains 7 lieux dits (a place defined by its topography or history). Don’t be deterred by the number of Premier Cru plots.  Take your time to discover which appeals.  

The Chablis identity

Once a part of Champagne, Chablis only became part of Burgundy in the late 15th century. The region is semi-continental in weather and receives no maritime influence. The soil, in combination with the cooler climate, gives Chablis its distinctive flavour profile. Greenish-yellow in colour with great clarity, racy acidity and wet stone aromas, Chablis wines have typically less oak influence and are vinified in stainless steel tanks to preserve the intense purity, crispness and steely minerality.

If oak is used, the amount of char in oak barrels used is often low. In the words of Olivier Bailly, winemaker of Domaine Billaud Simon: “The tension and minerality of Chablis is spectacular and unmatched in today’s Chardonnay world.  If you are into broad, oaky and buttery Chardonnay, Chablis is certainly not for you. If you like clean, crispy, fresh and mineral wines, then you have the perfect match.” 

Chablis can be enjoyed in its youth, yet also ages with great grace and beauty. If you like your wines extremely chilled you may, in this instance, allow the wine to warm in the glass for a bit to enjoy the full glory of the Chablis – the wines tasted below were enjoyed at around 14 deg C.

Mentioned in Leo Tolstoy’s 1873 classic Anna Karenina as a perfect pairing with oysters and Parmesan cheese, Chablis had already made its mark then. It continues to do so in the present day. Find your favourites and experiment with the food and wine pairings – all before prices soar.

Tasting notes

Domaine Moreau Naudet Chablis 2018

This basic offering from Moreau Naudet was in a class of its own – aromas of wet stone and grass with a slightly green nose (which blew away as the wine opened in the glass). On the palate, it was extremely clean and fresh with lemon, yuzu and mandarin notes. An attractive glass that is showing well now, it paired well with white fish sushi/sashimi and was also perfect as an aperitif.

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Stephane Moreau belonged to the group of vignerons in Chablis that brought a new style and approach to farming in Chablis. He passed away in 2016. Today, the Domaine is managed by Virginie, his widow. The fruit is subjected to a very gentle press, with the juice fermented with natural yeasts.  Raised in tank, the wine spends 20 months on its lees.  

Domaine Billaud Simon Chablis 1er Cru Fourchume 2020

This was a very classic sip. As it is still in its infancy, allow time in the glass. Aromas of lemon, chalk and a whisper of oak greet you. There were lovely creamy layers with intense concentration on the palate. Precise and textural with a good long finish, this was a classic Chablis. This will pair well with oysters, a lobster roll and deep-fried frog legs.  

Established in 1815, Domaine Billaud-Simon has been owned by Domaine Faiveley since 2014. The Domaine has recently gone through a reinvention with improvements to the winery leading to some stellar showings.    

Domaine Jean Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Clos Hommage a Louis’ 2021

A muted nose with faint aromas of lemon curd, buttered toast, smokiness and saline notes greet you. Honeyed and generous on the palate, this wine showed excellent balance and structure. The wine landed in Singapore in February 2023. Give it time to settle down. It will pair well with roast chicken and fried dim sum. 

I have very fond memories of my visit to the cellars of brothers Jean Paul and Benoit Droin several years ago – 13th generation owner Benoit was in attendance and was extremely generous in presenting a full tasting of all their wines. The wines of Domaine Droin give excellent value and much pleasure. 

Domaine Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2008

This offering from the doyen of Chablis, Domaine Raveneau, was absolutely delicious and already approachable. Lovely ripe aromas of melon, pear, chalk and mineral greet you on the nose. On the palate, a fresh citrus, richly layered sip with a long lingering finish will leave you wanting more. I loved the acidity and balance. I had half the bottle decanted and kept the other half for the next day. An elegant sip that paired very well with a classic French menu.

Domaine Raveneau created in 1948 is now helmed by Francois’ sons Bernard and Jean-Marie and Bernard’s daughter Isabelle. They farm almost eight hectares of land including three Grand Cru vineyards (Blanchot, Les Clos and Valmur).