Italian food with a weak Roman accent at Medusa

NEW RESTAURANT

Medusa Italian Osteria Romana B1-22 South Beach Avenue 26 Beach Road Singapore 189768 Tel: 8226-0116 Open daily for lunch and dinner: 12 pm to 3 pm; 6 pm to 10.30 pm

WE remember when Fortuna first opened. It had a nice vibe. Chaotic, maybe, but it took pride in what it served. It had three types of pizza – we happily ordered all so we wouldn’t be forced to choose. That was fun, natural, and we didn’t feel threatened in any way.

So we haven’t been in a while, but it’s hard to fathom how this easy-going, neighbourly pizza joint could be related to the new Medusa Italian Osteria Romana – which has all the traits of a sibling from another mother. One that’s wilder, flashier and more attention-seeking. For a moment, we’re not sure if we stepped into a restaurant or someone’s hallucination.

You can easily pick out its blinding red facade from the scattering of generic, grey-faced eateries in South Beach’s basement dining enclave. From the alfresco seating to the neon-lit foyer, right through to the dining hall lined with pop art, everything is a deep, “the devil will see you now” blood red. Either Medusa is trying to make a statement, or its designer just went through a bad breakup with a minimalist.

It’s just as well that we’re ushered into the tight bar area instead of the main dining room – there’s less colour to deal with, even though we’re plonked within eavesdropping distance of the next table. Like us, they seem vaguely disoriented. Like them, we follow the advice of the server who tells us what to eat.

Medusa is Italian with a strong Roman accent, but the menu itself speaks two languages: tomato and cream. It calls itself unapologetically rich, but we wouldn’t mind a bit of contrition. Most of our meal is spent wading through thick creamy cheese sauces or heavy red ragu differentiated only by how much bacon or egg was added to it. If this is authentic Roman cuisine, we’re tempted to take the next flight to the actual city and say, “shame on you”.

There is the odd exception. Since it’s our first order, we warm to the burrata fritta (S$26) despite its heft. You bite into a chewy crust of deep fried burrata that bursts to release molten cheesy lava into a moat of rich, eggy carbonara sauce. Topped with chives and fried guanciale bits, you’ll need to ignore your heart’s protests to enjoy this guilty pleasure. 

The only light option is tuna carpaccio (S$26) – defrosted, waterlogged pink sashimi decorated with sweet balsamico, mayo with barely a hint of anchovy, and citrus zest instead of the orange segments described in the menu. The server didn’t recommend it. We understand why.

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He helpfully offers us half portions of pasta, and suggests casarecce (S$35) and mezze maniche (S$32). They’re like twins who change their hairstyles so you can tell them apart. Same tomato-based sauce but different pasta, and one with added egg yolk and Italian sausage. Both are equally stodgy.

That said, what gets us through the meal is a little jar of magic on every table. It’s a really good crunchy, spicy, chunky chilli oil that gets its kick from garlic and sesame seeds, and everything you ladle it on instantly brightens up. It doesn’t say much for the kitchen, but at least it does its condiments well.

We certainly need it to coax some life into the pinsa romana – supposedly Roman-style pizza that’s crunchier and lighter than the norm. Instead, it’s a pricey (S$20 for two canape-sized bites) unmotivated flatbread with a curious topping of caramelised onions and tuna with an odd perfumey finish. 

It’s hard to go wrong with dessert, so maritozzi (S$16) is an interesting, airy, brioche-like bun filled with thick pistachio cream studded with crunchy nuts. Truffle on tiramisu (S$18) doesn’t do much for it but it’s a nice try. It’s more cream than sponge cake but decent enough, and the fine shavings of black truffle mingling with the dusted cocoa on top give you a decent whiff of earthiness before it disappears.

While the harried but nice staff try, there’s little by way of soul or personality to be found at Medusa. It’s more theme park than serious restaurant, although it works perfectly well as a hype-driven destination for those drawn to drama or convenience. 

Even with its Roman affiliation, there are too many Italian restaurants out there for Medusa to make a dent. Still, if someone wants to invite you here for a meal, it’s up to you to decide if that’s a promise or a threat.

RATING: 5.5