WHEN IT COMES TO INNOVATION and style in watchmaking, Patek Philippe is still at the top of its game.

This was evident at Watches & Wonders 2024, when the brand unveiled its latest novelties. 

Two stood out: a patented first world-time watch with a date display in sync with local time, and an elegant dress model making a comeback with a new chain-style bracelet that took 15 years to develop. 

Clearly, the 185-year-old family-owned Swiss watchmaker has not lost its touch. Its latest range features subtle and new interpretations in travel, calendar, sporty and women’s watches – including the Twenty-4 ladies’ collection, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year.

Here’s a taste of what to expect.

World Time Date Reference 5330G

This latest-generation world-time watch has a date display synchronised with local time, a feature that is totally new to the model. It’s made possible thanks to a new self-winding movement with an innovative differential system.

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The model was first launched as a limited edition last year, at Patek Philippe’s Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Tokyo. With the latest release, it is now part of the watchmaker’s regular collection.

“Local time” on the watch refers to the reading in the time zone selected at the 12 o’clock position on the blue-grey dial’s city disk, framed by a 40 mm white gold case. The central hands indicate the local time. The date is shown on the dial’s periphery by a glass central hand with a red hammerhead-style tip.

Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R

First rolled out in 1968, the Golden Ellipse returns with an elegant handcrafted chain-style bracelet in rose gold that rests comfortably on the wrist. It also accentuates the finesse of a matching rose gold case that frames an ebony black sunburst dial. It took 15 years of product development to complete the bracelet design while eliminating the technical drawbacks of previous versions, especially in adjusting the length.

Hand-polished throughout, the bracelet is distinguished by a modern patented construction that has made it possible to recreate the style of the classic chain bracelets. Some 363 parts, including 300 links, are strung together by hand to make the bracelet, which is easily adjustable with a clasp offering three adjustment notches. The bracelet is exclusive to this reference.

The Golden Ellipse, which is the perfect dress watch, first appeared in a yellow gold case with a dial in blue gold. It has since donned other hues of gold with dials of different colours and paired with both leather straps and bracelets of precious metals.

It’s now a style icon in Patek Philippe’s watch collection, thanks to an unusual yet instantly recognisable case – shaped somewhere between a circle and a rectangle, and inspired by the golden ratio.

At the heart of the new Golden Ellipse Reference 5738 beats a self-winding movement, an ultra-thin mechanism with an off-centre mini rotor in 22-ct gold that allows the case to be very low-profile (5.9 mm). It’s no surprise that the model is the slimmest watch in Patek Philippe’s regular collection.

Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520RG

Combining a dual time zone display and 24-hour alarm clock, this latest two-tone version comes with rose gold pusher tubes in white gold on a rose gold case.

The first Alarm Travel Time was launched in 2019. The new model’s 42.2 mm case frames a sunburst grey dial which showcases charcoal grey Arabic numerals and sword-shaped hands in white gold with luminescent coating. 

The pushers indicate and regulate the alarm and travel time functions. The alarm mechanism features a hammer striking a classic gong, and this can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback (which is interchangeable with a solid rose gold caseback). The crown at 4 o’clock allows the alarm time to be selected in 15-minute increments through a digital-display double window at 12 o’clock, which also has a day/night indicator.

The Alarm Travel Time Reference 5520RG is powered by a patented self-winding movement and paired with a chestnut calfskin strap that’s been given a vintage finishing and contrasting cream stitching. It is secured by a rose gold buckle with the Patek Philippe indication reserved for Pilot-style models.

Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts Reference 5160/500R

A new rose gold interpretation of a self-winding perpetual calendar with a retrograde date hand, this complication is also highlighted by a hand-engraved, officer-style case with a sapphire crystal case-back. This, in turn, is protected by a hand-engraved hinged dust cover. Past models such as this are highly sought after by lovers of rare timepieces.

The beautiful hand-engraved work on the Reference 5160/500R, which was inspired by a pocket watch in the Patek Philippe Museum, is thorough. It covers the entire case, bezel, lugs, cover, crown – right down to the strap screws.

This new watch runs on a new movement, the 26-330 S QR calibre, which is derived from the self-winding 26-330 base calibre introduced in 2019. The movement features a stop-seconds function, along with other technical innovations notably relating to the winding system. The new movement replaces the 324 S QR calibre which powered the 2016 model.

The Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Rare Handcrafts Ref 5160/500R is also fitted with a new patinated brown alligator strap secured by a hand-engraved rose gold fold-over clasp.

Twenty-4 Reference 4910/1201R 

The first Patek Philippe line dedicated to women turns 25 this year – and this new cuff-style model celebrates the anniversary of a collection that reflects timeless elegance.

Quartz-driven, the fully polished rose gold timepiece – right down to the bracelet and clasp – is defined by a refined purple lacquer dial decorated by an embossed pattern that’s taken much time and effort to finish.

The original shape of the rectangular two-tier case is decked with two rows of 17 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.63 ct), set on either side of the dial. Patek Philippe’s Calatrava cross adorns the crown. 

Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5269R

This quartz-powered timepiece is the first non-gem-set model in a collection first rolled out in 2021. When it made its debut, it was the first travel watch in the Aquanaut range with a new quartz movement. The first quartz-powered Aquanaut Travel Time sported a rose gold case with a white dial, topped by a bezel paved with precious stones. It was paired with a white strap.

The latest model is distinguished by a blue-grey dial nestled in a 38.8 mm rose gold case, which is enhanced by contrasting polished and satin finishes. The integrated strap is made of an ultra-resistant blue-grey composite material and fitted with a patented Patek Philippe fold-over clasp secured by four independent safety catches.