The versatility of French Sauvignon Blanc

WHENEVER you gather for dinner with friends and a white wine is in order, Sauvignon Blanc is the invariable choice. But what is it that makes this white grape so popular?

More than just an easy summer drink

The Sauvignon Blanc is an extremely versatile grape and can be found all over the world. In the Asia-Pacific region, wine-producing New Zealand is likely the first that one would associate with the varietal. Sauvignon Blanc is also grown in Australia, South America (Chile and Argentina), South Africa, the US, Spain, Italy and of course, France.

Very aromatic with high acidity, this is an early ripening grape which grows best in cool climates where it can retain its freshness.

In France, Sauvignon Blanc is found in the Loire Valley and Bordeaux (there are small parcels in Languedoc as well). This white grape variety displays regional differences that offer a wide choice in the style of wine. A clean style and a barrel-aged Sauvignon Blanc would taste quite different from each other.

Sauvignon Blanc in a blend

Sauvignon Blanc isn’t a loner, and is a key partner with the Semillon grape for producing the famed white wines of Bordeaux. Some greats include the iconic Chateau Haut Brion Blanc and Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc. Here, Sauvignon Blanc blends with Semillon to produce wines with fruit and mineral aromas which can age for a very long time, and gain flavour and textural complexity.

The Loire Valley

The two most prestigious appellations for Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire Valley are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume (the key difference being that only Sauvignon Blanc is produced in Pouilly-Fume, while Sancerre produces red wines and rose as well). 

According to Shirley Tan, assistant head sommelier of 67 Pall Mall: “Sancerre is a unique appellation due to the hilly landscape, continental climate with river influences, and three significant soils – Caillottes, Terres Blanches and Silex.”

In Sancerre, where the Sauvignon Blanc holds court, unique flavours such as grass, green apple, wet stone and freshly cut herbs – characteristics that make a Sancerre different due to the climate and terroir – are evident. The wines tend to be dry and high in acidity.

Usually enjoyed young, Sancerre can age and develop lovely secondary and tertiary aromas and flavours. 

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Patience will be rewarded, says Rajeshwaran Gopal, director of Climat Wine Consultancy.

“Many modern winemakers emphasise a single site and do away with simplistic expressions of Sauvignon Blancs due to the wide variety of terroir.” 

This has resulted in serious wines being produced for long-term drinking. France not only produces different expressions to the Sauvignon Blanc, but also wines of excellent value. 

Tasting notes

Four Sauvignon Blancs were shortlisted after tasting eight different labels. The wines selected represent the diversity of styles that can be made with Sauvignon Blanc.  

Domaine Vacheron Sancerre Blanc ‘Les Romains’ 2020

A long-established name and a favourite with sommeliers, this Les Romains showed aromas of flint, lemon, apricot, nectarine and smoke.

With lovely weight and texture on the palate, flavours of spice and pickled guava made this a delicious Sancerre that will age nicely and pair well with food. Domaine Vacheron also makes a red wine, Les Romains Rouge.   

Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Neore 2008

This was a revelation. Enjoyed over three days, Edmond Vatan was introduced to me by a sommelier friend. For its age, it was surprisingly pale yellow in colour with a tinge of green. Elegant aromas of white mushroom, green stone fruit with a restrained note of mineral and tertiary notes were evident. 

At 15 years of age, this bottle was definitely making its mark. This 2008 certainly did not show its age. Enjoy it on its own and savour every drop. Is Sauvignon Blanc made to be drunk young? Not the Vatan. 

Domaine Didier Dagueneau Pouilly-Fume Silex 2019

Don’t expect gooseberries from the legendary winemaker’s grandson. Muted aromas of stone fruit, grass and hay are on the nose. Oily on the palate, rich yet clean with plenty of depth. Allow the wine time to open. While still in its infancy, this 2019 can already be approached. This paired very well with French cuisine that included steak frites.

The vintages of 2018, 2019 and 2020 show that global warming is affecting this cool climate region. Having the occasional warm vintage seems to be something of the past. The three consecutive warm seasons present a new challenge for the wine producers. 

Domaine la Fontaine des Grives Libre Comme L’Air Thenac 2021

This offering from the south-west of France, which is not known for producing Sauvignon Blanc, was a wild card which showed very well at the tasting. Led by winemaker Benoit Perisse, this bottle from Domaine Fontaine des Grives is the perfect bottle to bring to a blind tasting as it does not display typical aromas associated with the Sauvignon Blanc. 

Light to medium lemon in colour with a slightly cloudy appearance, delicious aromas of ginger, mushroom, yellow fruit and green yuzu greet you. On the palate, there is a gentle fizz with a good attack on the mid-palate, producing nice savoury notes.

With good balance, fresh acidity with an elegant finish, this was a lovely natural wine that might convert those who lean into the anti-natural wine camp. This wine will pair well with Thai food and South-east Asian cuisine, in particular, dishes with fish sauce.

Fume Blanc – the American Sauvignon Blanc

The term “fume blanc” is only used in the US and was created by Robert Mondavi in 1968 when he wanted to produce a dry Sauvignon Blanc to compare with the Loire’s Sauvignon Blanc. This Sauvignon Blanc is ripe, creamy and spicy in style, and barrel fermented. 

All wines were purchased by the writer