12 wines to match that late-summer heat

[NEW YORK] Summer is often thought of as the season of roses and whites. They naturally come to mind because they’re served cold, but it’s a false equation. It’s not the colour of wine that determines its seasonality but the weight.

As with tees and tank tops, it’s the lightness of the material that suits wines to the summer heat. People still wear plenty of blacks, greys and dark blues in the summer, but the fabrics are light, linens and cottons rather than heavyweight wools.

Similarly, we store away the big, robust wines, whether reds or whites, until the weather cools. But less substantial reds, specifically those that are light-to-medium-bodied and lower in alcohol – say, 13.5 per cent or below – can be excellent, especially if served lightly chilled.

Not that we don’t want whites and roses. Of course we do, especially those that, like the reds, are not heavy or too alcoholic. But reds can be great in the hot weather, too, and desirable, unless we shelve plans to grill steaks, ribs and burgers until the fall.

I visited several New York wine shops recently and found 12 bottles that will be great in the August heat, all US$20 to US$40. Sharp-eyed readers might remember a couple of these bottles from older round-ups of wines under US$20. What with inflation and tariffs, these prices are the new reality.

I would still call these wines good values because the quality is top-notch, and value is judged not strictly by the price, but also against what else is available at that same price.

As always, look for these wines at good shops rather than supermarkets. If these particular bottles are not available, merchants ought to be able to point you in the direction of similar bottles.

Here they are in order of price.

Ampeleia Toscana Unlitro Bianco 2025, 11.5%, US$23 (1 litre)

The Unlitro wines from Ampeleia are among the best values around. This lively white blend is bright, bone-dry and refreshing.

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It’s made with organically or biodynamically farmed vermentino, malvasia and trebbiano Toscano, grown at high altitude in the Maremma region on the Tuscan coast.

It would be great with pastas such as a basil pesto as well as shrimp dishes. The Unlitro red is great as well. (Bowler Wine, New York)

Camp North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, 13.1%, US$23

Kenny Likitprakong of Hobo Wine Co has demonstrated over many years now that California can make excellent, moderately priced wines without compromise. Hobo, a family of a half-dozen labels, works only with organically grown grapes, grown primarily in Northern California.

This cabernet, from one of Hobo’s labels, Camp, is typical. It’s structured, with discernible tannins, yet fresh and bright, with savoury fruit and herbal flavours. Try it with juicy burgers or steak off the grill.

Forlorn Hope Queen of the Sierra Rorick Heritage Vineyard Calaveras County 2023, 12.6%, US$25

Matthew Rorick makes the Queen of the Sierra wines at high elevation in the Sierra Foothills from organically grown grapes. This dry, rounded white blend is primarily chardonnay, verdelho and muscat, which makes itself felt in the broad floral aroma.

It’s richly textured, yet not at all heavy. It goes down easily, though not so easily that you don’t want to take a moment to think about it.

Tiberio Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2025, 13.5%, US$28

This is one of my favourite roses, if you can call it a rose. It’s a pale cherry colour, like a light red wine, nothing like the bleached pink typical of most Provencal roses. But that’s the nature of cerasuolo, which is derived from the Italian word for “cherry”.

Antonio and Cristiana Tiberio, brother and sister, are scrupulous farmers and winemakers, and I love their wines. This bottle, made entirely of montepulciano d’Abruzzo, tastes like rocks and lemons. You can drink it with anything. (The Sorting Table, Napa, California)

Nicolas Carmarans Vin de France Maximus 2024, 11.5%, US$28

Nicolas Carmarans works in the Aveyron region of south-western France, where he makes natural wines. He specialises in a local variety, fer servadou, making several different cuvees from varied terroirs.

Maximus is light and exuberant, a fresh, lively wine bursting with fruit and energy. Drink it lightly chilled. (Steven Graf, Ridgewood, New York)

Forge Cellars Seneca Lake Breakneck Creek Vineyard Dry Riesling 2023, 12.2%, US$29

Forge Cellars in the Finger Lakes is a collaboration between a Frenchman, Louis Barruol – whose family has owned Chateau St Cosme in Gigondas for centuries – and Rick Rainey, an American who came to wine through the restaurant industry.

They are abetted by Leana Godard, the winemaker. Forge’s dry rieslings are superb, like this one from the Breakneck Creek Vineyard, with floral aromas and deep, persistent gravelly mineral flavours.

Outward San Luis Obispo Coast Coquina Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2025, 12.1%, US$32

I often find California sauvignon blancs too pungent or too sweet. But categorical impressions in wine are dangerous and often proved wrong.

Case in point: Outward’s 2025 Coquina Vineyard sauvignon blanc from the San Luis Obispo Coast, a gorgeous wine with deep, rich, saturated flavours and a light, lovely texture that makes you want to roll it around in your mouth.

Lesson learnt, yet again: It’s never the category that makes the wine, just the site, the farming and the intent and skill of the winemaker.

Martha Stoumen California Post Flirtation Red 2023, 12.5%, US$33

You would be hard-pressed to find a more delicious wine than this red blend. Aside from leasing and farming her own plots, Martha Stoumen works with conscientious growers and makes wines that she believes express the character of Northern California.

This red, Post Flirtation, is 62 per cent zinfandel and the rest carignan. It’s gently made to minimise tannins and is bright and lovely, spicy, easy-going and fresh. It’s another red that would be best lightly chilled.

Istine Chianti Classico 2023, 13.5%, US$35

I’ve been touting the virtues of Chianti Classico for years now because, when made by good producers, they are beautiful, delicious and versatile. Angela Fronti of Istine is based in Radda in Chianti, a high-altitude area, and her wines are typically pure and crystalline.

This bottle, her entry-level Chianti, is 100 per cent sangiovese, high-toned and full of flavour. Try it with grilled skirt steak or any pasta with cooked tomato sauce. (Soilair Selection, New York)

Cantalapiedra Viticultores Majuelos del Chiviritero 2024, 13.5%, US$37

Isaac and Manuel Cantalapiedra farm organically in the Rueda region of Castilla y Leon. This bottle, Majuelos del Chiviritero, is made entirely of the verdejo grape, and is perhaps a bit more serious than some of the other wines in this round-up.

It’s aged in older oak barrels and has enough depth and structure to serve with seafood dishes such as halibut or a roast chicken. (Stelle Wine Co, New York)

Domaine de Montbourgeau Cremant du Jura Brut Zero NV, 12.5%, US$38

Domaine de Montbourgeau in the Jura rarely gets much attention, but it’s one of my favourite Jura producers. I especially like its cremant.

It’s made entirely of organically farmed chardonnay, and is bone dry, almost austere but for a light creaminess. It’s focused, lively and elegant. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York)

Lady of the Sunshine San Luis Obispo Coast Rose 2025, 12%, US$40

Gina Giugni is a biodynamic farmer on the San Luis Obispo Coast. She makes the Lady of the Sunshine wines either with grapes from Bassi Vineyard, which she owns with her husband, Mikey Giugni of Scar of the Sea, or from vines she leases and farms.

This salmon-coloured rose, 85 per cent pinot noir and the rest sauvignon blanc, is terrific, tangy, saline and substantial, though light. Yes, it would be great poolside, but even better with a meal such as broiled salmon. NYTIMES