Madrid: Prepare to be surprised

ONE OF THE WORLD’S GREATEST mysteries has got to be why travellers often overlook Madrid in favour of cities such as London, Paris and Rome. The bustling Spanish capital has much to offer in the way of gastronomy, culture and style. Not only that, the region is also rich in history and natural beauty, with lush countryside just a short drive away, where quaint medieval towns, picture-perfect wineries and scenic parks are a welcome change from city life.

Go back in time

Be swept back in time in Buitrago del Lozoya, one of the region’s most well-preserved villages that dates back to the 15th century. Its Old Town is surrounded by Arab-built walls that protect its castle and gothic church Santa Maria del Castillo, not to mention the Picasso Museum, filled with posters, ceramics, lithographs and drawings by the famed artist.

Don’t limit yourself to just one historic site, though. Take your pick of Salamanca, home to a centuries-old university and a World Heritage Site; the stunning Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba; or the Royal Palace of Aranjuez, just to name a few. Or head to Patones, and be charmed by the mediaeval village of Patones de Arriba where olive groves, cobblestoned paths and black slate architecture evoke an other-worldly feel. 

Even in Madrid’s city centre, you’ll find history and luxury in an elegant package at the Four Seasons Madrid, which is housed in the refurbished El Palacio de la Equitativa, a former bank that has been declared a cultural heritage monument. The hotel joins a recent spate of high-end openings, including The Edition Madrid, Rosewood Villa Magna and JW Marriott. Meanwhile, the Mandarin Oriental Ritz, Madrid opened in 2021. 

Tantalise your tastebuds

Love tapas? You’ve come to the right place. The winding streets of La Latina and Malasana are filled with tapas bars at every corner. Enjoy nothing more than to trawl centuries-old markets and ornate food halls? Madrid has them in spades. If your tastes veer towards the high-end, know that the city is home to no less than 22 Michelin-starred establishments.

Only in Madrid can you eat at the world’s oldest restaurant, Restaurant Botin, a historic gem that dates back to 1725. It serves what is arguably the city’s finest roast suckling pig, cochinillo asado, and melt-in-your-mouth roast lamb, cordero asado. Don’t miss the city’s classic dish of caracoles or Spanish escargot (snails) at the restaurant Casa Amadeo.

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That rich history has led to the evolution of dining destinations such as the three-Michelin-starred DiverXO, which is No 3 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 list. Acclaimed chef Dabiz Munoz’s two tasting menus are plated in ways that resemble artistic canvases.

For a taste of what locals eat, head to Mercado de San Anton, located in the neighbourhood of Chueca. Originally dating back to the 19th century, the market was rebuilt in 2011 and offers a modern, sustainable environment where you can shop at its gourmet market stalls or dine at its rooftop-terrace restaurant.

If you can spare the time, consider joining a wine tour to the picturesque wine-growing region of San Martin de Valdeiglesias. Located a 30-minute drive west of Madrid, it is considered the jewel of Madrid’s four main winemaking regions. Its nine charming municipalities unfold along the Alberche River, nurturing predominantly Albillo (white) and Garnacha (red) grape varieties.

The region’s continental Mediterranean climate, influenced by mountainous terrain, yields wines characterised by depth and minerality, thanks to its sandy granite soils. With vineyards reaching heights of up to 1,000 metres, it remains resilient to climate change, providing a haven for traditional winemaking.

That irrepressible Spanish style

From luxe labels to fast fashion frivolity, Madrid is a playground for fashion.

Fashion hounds will be no stranger to the effortless cool of Loewe, which has its roots as a 19th century leather artisan workshop. Today, under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson, it sits at the intersection of fashion, design, art and craft and is the darling of the LVMH empire.

Take a gander at the latest Casa Loewe flagship in the ritzy Salamanca district. While you’re in the area, be sure to stop by Duran – a jeweller that has been supplying Spanish royals since 1899 – or Yanes, a family-owned jewellery firm that has been in business since 1881.

Just a few blocks away, Madrid’s most elegant gentlemen – aristocrats, tycoons and political bigwigs – get their suits tailored at Yusty, as they have since 1914. For more casual fits, the store also stocks primo names such as Canali, John Lobb and Moncler. Make a pitstop at Glent Shoes if you’re in the market for a pair of bespoke footwear.

Fashion favourites Balenciaga and Manolo Blahnik are also iconic Spanish brands, and both have outposts in Salamanca. Numerous fine-dining restaurants also dot the area, making it worth spending a day here.

For those short on time, a visit to department store El Corte Ingles (numerous locations throughout the city) is in order. You’ll find all the usual suspects there from the world’s leading names in luxury, including Bvlgari, Cartier, Dior, Gucci, Hermes and Louis Vuitton. For non-EU residents, it’s worth noting that the store can process VAT refunds on items purchased in-store.

In the city centre, you’ll find Galería Canalejas, a chic shopping arcade housed in a heritage-listed neoclassical building. It boasts a food hall with a myriad of gourmet options and there’s direct access to the adjacent Four Seasons Madrid.

Spain isn’t a mecca for only luxury marques, of course. It’s also the home of your favourite high street brands – Bershka, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Pull & Bear and of course, Zara. But only in Madrid can you shop at the world’s largest Zara store, which opened in April 2022.

Located in the renovated Edificio Espana at Plaza de Espana, the store sprawls over four storeys and 7,700 square metres of retail space. Here you can return clothes purchased online and book a changing room through an app. We challenge you to walk out empty-handed!

Feed your intellect and soul

In Madrid, history isn’t squirrelled away in dusty library books or archived in crypts. It plays out on every street corner and town square.

Only in Madrid can you visit Europe’s largest palace – the 18th century Palacio Real de Madrid, which boasts more than 3,000 rooms, making it larger than Versailles. The royal family does not live there anymore, but it remains their official residence. You can witness the changing of the guard ceremony on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

From royal history to art history, the nation’s artistic legacy is concentrated in a trifecta of institutions within the Paseo del Arte (art walk). A must-stop on every visitor’s itinerary is the Prado Museum, a repository of more than 8,600 paintings and 700 sculptures.

There’s a lot to digest, including Old Masters works from Spain, Italy and Flanders (modern-day northern Belgium). If you’re short on time, it’s best to plan ahead and curate your own selection of what you want to see, though your list should include Velazquez’ Las Meninas and Goya’s Third of May, 1808.

Nearby is the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, with a more manageable collection of over 1,000 artworks spanning European and American traditions from the 13th to the 20th century. Think masterpieces from Caravaggio and Peter Paul Rubens to van Gogh and Robert Rauschenberg.

Those with more modern and/or avant-garde tastes will gravitate towards the Reina Sofía Museum. Highlights here include pieces by Dali, Miro and Picasso – the latter’s Guernica depicts the horrors that the Basque town of Guernica endured during the Spanish Civil War.

Soccer is practically a religion in Madrid, and when it comes to sacred grounds, the Santiago Bernabéu Stadium takes the cake. It’s the home of Real Madrid, 14-time Champions League winners. Madridismos (fans of the club) have been coming here since 1947.

The stadium is currently being redeveloped. Once ready in late 2023, the upgraded facility will have a retractable roof, although capacity will remain at around 80,000. You can still tour the venue – though some areas are off-limits for now – and pick up some souvenirs at the pop-up store on site.

If there’s one thing Madrid is as fervent about as soccer, it has to be flamenco. Although the art form developed in Andalusia in the country’s south, Madrid became the capital of flamenco as performers flocked to the city to seek their fortunes.

Today, tablaos (flamenco bars) throughout the city stage performances every evening, which you can enjoy with a meal and drink. Feel flamenco’s passion and intensity at legendary venues such as Corral de la Morería, which since 1956 has played host to guests such as Picasso, Charlton Heston, John F Kennedy and Nicole Kidman.

For a truly memorable evening, make a reservation at the one-Michelin-starred Corral de la Morería Restaurant, an exclusive four-table setup where chef David Garcia will preside over a personalised menu.