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Italy growers wary of olive oil fraud

One of the few things clear about the proposed measure is that the controversy has everything to do with the laws of supply and demand.

Blera, Italy

FOR some of the 300 olive growers who toil here in the rolling hills of the Lazio region, making olive oil is a year-round labour of love.

The olives are hand-harvested early in the fall, when they are still green, and are whisked to a cooperative-run mill so they can...