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Jeffrey Stuffings (left), a founder of Jester King, and head brewer, Averie Swanson, at the coolship, where ambient microbes have begun fermenting lambic-inspired beer.

American beers with a pungent whiff of place

Feb 2, 2018 5:50 AM

Hays County, Texas

IN a former machine shop here in the Texas Hill Country, Jeffrey Stuffings, a founder of Jester King Brewery, led a tour group up a narrow staircase, to a loft where dozens of oak barrels surrounded what looked like an enormous copper sheet pan. Stained-glass windows

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