There are more good rosés than ever

THE surge in popularity for rosé over the past few years means there are many more in the market.

This week's recommendations include a delicious pink from one of Virginia's most improved wineries and a kitschy label from southern France. Hey, it rhymes, and it tastes great!

We also have a delicious pinot noir from Patagonia, in southern Argentina, an obscure white from the French Alps and a Spanish Albarino destined for seafood.

Early Mountain Rosé 2017 3 stars Virginia

Early Mountain is a Virginia winery riding a rocket. Since Jean and Steve Case, of AOL fame, bought the property in 2011, they have invested in the facility and the vineyards, renovating the former and expanding the latter. They have also brought in an exceptional team headed by chief winemaker Ben Jordan.

Current releases include delicious chardonnay and cabernet franc from Quaker Run Vineyard, a leased property in the Blue Ridge foothills.

New labels feature topographical maps that suggest wines rooted in terroir, and an I Ching-style representation of the initials EM to suggest a Tao-like philosophy.

Whatever. The proof is inside the bottle, not on the label.

This rosé is Early Mountain's most widely available wine in distribution and is delicious. Alcohol by volume (ABV): 12.5 per cent.

Rhone to the Bone 2017 Rosé 2.5 stars Cotes-du-Rhone, France

This wine may at first blush seem as though it's driven by marketing, but taste it, and you'll discover it's a crisp, tasty rose, ideal for starting a meal or for accompanying spicy foods. ABV: 13.5 per cent.

Domaine de l'Idylle Roussette de Savoie 2016 2.5 stars Savoie, France

I always enjoy tasting a wine I've never heard of before; there's no pressure, only fun. The Savoie region of southeastern France, in the Alps, is best known for wines from Apremont - crisp and acidic, a jolt to revive you after a long afternoon on the ski slopes. Roussette is more like a warm embrace, comforting after a day of hiking - or more realistically, gardening. ABV: 13 per cent.

Malma Pinot Noir Finca la Papay NQN 2014 2.5 stars Patagonia, Argentina

The Neuquen area of Patagonia, sometimes marketed as NQN, is one of Argentina's most exciting wine regions. This is a racy, full-throttled pinot noir that combines the characteristics of high altitude and cool climate into a stylish, lovely wine. I tasted the 2014; the distributor is now selling the 2017 vintage of this wine. ABV: 13.5 per cent.

Pazo de Villarei Albarino 2016 2 stars Rias Baixas, Spain

Albarino sings with seafood - fish on the grill, ceviche, smoked trout or salmon, seafood salad. You name it, albarino will match it. This wine is no exception. ABV: 13 per cent.