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Old World vs New charm

Three Pinot Noirs, three French classic reds and one Argentine Malbec make it to the top 30.

Published Fri, Sep 12, 2014 · 10:00 PM
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THE submitted wines from Singapore's wine merchants for the BT Wine Challenge 2014 were deftly culled to just 30 wines for the final phase of judging by CEOs. Interestingly only six of the final group came from the New World with the remaining 24 from greater Europe. Certainly for many of the classic styles Europe still sets a benchmark but the sheer quality of what is now available from the New World is hard to ignore. A fine example is among producers of Pinot Noir, coined The Heartbreak Grape, enticing us with its seductive, sometimes ethereal, charm. Three Pinot Noirs were retained for the final phase of judging alongside three French classic reds and one characteristic Argentine Malbec.

Pinot Noir is a variety that suits marginal, cooler climates and the first one to be shortlisted hails from Tasmania. Australians have long been aware that Tasmania, which produces 0.5 percent of Australia's total, can make world-class wines, particularly in the sparkling category. Tasmania's identity as a region of fine wine production is evolving. This is especially apparent where Pinot Noir is concerned. Highly experienced and well-respected winemakers have been attracted to Tasmania, convinced of the region's ability to produce high quality wines. Well-known producer, Shaw & Smith, purchased the highly recognised Tolpuddle Vineyard in 2011, which was the source of Dalrymple's Single Site CV90 Pinot Noir 2011. Dalrymple was established in 1987 thus these are mature vines and this shows in the wine. Layers of earthy, savoury notes mingled with tones of red and black fruit aromas. The palate displayed a luscious, quite beautiful texture of silken tannins, concentrated black cherry flavours with a crunchy, cranberry fruit lift.

California's Sonoma Coast (AVA), with its tree-covered peaks popping up above the sea fog, is one of the most visually stunning wine regions in North America. With his talents nurtured at some of Burgundy's pedigree domaines including Dujac, Bruno Clair and Roulot, American Ted Lemon has become one of California's most respected winemakers. Mr Lemon sought out the cool, low yielding vineyards of Sonoma Coast to set up his own small negociant business in the mid 1990s. Sonoma Coast Pinot is characterised by an intensity of fruit flavour, supported by a delicate earthiness and a bright acid structure. Mr Lemon's Littorai Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2011 does not disappoint. With attractive, lifted black cherry and redcurrant aromas the palate profile was initially of a sweet ripeness with an abundant black fruit core but the acidity balanced that concentration along with gentle spice and savoury characters enhancing the lengthy finish.

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