Rolex is flying high with novelties

Never has the roll-out of new Rolex watches been so eagerly awaited – and so full of excitement – as in 2022, when the world finally came to terms with the coronavirus.

The wait was worth it, to say the least. When the cover was finally lifted, the six new models not only wowed everyone, but also sent a sense of optimism and innovation to the watchmaking world.

The revelation came with big surprises as usual, but this time it’s one none would have guessed even in their wildest imaginations.

Yet, some things stay reassuringly unchanged. As these six pieces show, Rolex’s never tired of raising the game to produce watches of higher precision, reliability and better design.

Oyster Perpetual Air-King

A watch that pays tribute to pilots of the 1930s golden age of flying, the Air-King got a facelift six years ago when it was given a new dial inspired by aircraft instruments.

On the new dial is a combination of 3, 6 and 9 numerals marking the hours, set against a distinctive black background.

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A prominent minutes scale provides for navigational time reading, while a green seconds hand echoes the brand’s emblematic colour.

The dial is made easier to read and more balanced with a “0” added before “5” on the minutes scale. Each five-minute interval is, therefore, now marked by two digits.

Maximum legibility in the dark is guaranteed, thanks to an optimised Chromalight display.

The hands and triangular hour markers at 12 o’clock are laced with a new luminescent material that gives an intense glow which lasts longer. This material is also applied on the 3, 6 and 9 numerals, previously made from white gold

All these are framed on a 40-millimetre wide stainless steel case that’s been totally redesigned to include a crown guard and straight sides, in line with the majority of watches in Rolex’s Professional collection.

The middle link of the bracelet integrated with the case is broadened and fitted with an Oysterlock safety clasp, a first for the model, which was first launched in 1958.

Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II

Without a doubt, the latest GMT-Master II is the watch that sparked the most excitement in 2022.

Since its debut in 1955, in a striking blue-red bezel, this two-time zone travel timepiece has gone through many variations, particularly in the colour of its bezel.

Over the years, the bezel has appeared in red and black, all black, blue and black as well as in black and green.

So it isn’t difficult to conceive of the new GMT-Master II in black and green bezel, given that green is the most popular colour with watch buyers this year.

Yet, while the colours of its bezel would have been anticipated, no one could have seen a left-handed version of the watch coming; even Rolex calls it an “unexpected version”.

On this left-handed GMT-Master II, the crown is on the left side of the case and the date aperture at 9 o’clock. It’s another first for a Rolex watch.

Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40

It’s hard to believe that this watch was a very innovative creation when it was rolled out in 1956, given that watches with a day and date display are so common these days.

But such calendar timepieces hardly existed in the 1950s. No watchmaker knew how to make one showing the day and date, in particular.

So when the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date was first unveiled, it was the world’s first watch to display them. The day of the week was spelt out in full, not only in English but also in a choice of 25 other languages.

The Day-Date today is Rolex’s most prestigious watch. It’s the only model in its entire catalogue to be cast exclusively from precious metals – yellow, white and Everose gold (Rolex-speak for rose gold), or platinum.

As the ice-blue dial affirms, the latest 40 mm Date-Date watch is encased in the noblest material – the 950 platinum. And it sports a fluted bezel, a first for the model.

A key Rolex design heritage, this striking component – found only on some of the brand’s classic models – has until now been made in gold.

As platinum is challenging to work with, to have produced a fluted bezel with sparkling surfaces in this material for the new Day-Date is a technical feat.

Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 40

The bezel of this gem-set model first made for navigators and skippers is decked with diamonds and sapphire in blue, silver and pink tones to reflect the aurora borealis – the northern lights – and the glow of dawn, which had inspired them.

The dial also has a unique shine that’s enhanced by a triangular diamond at 12 o’clock.

The 40 mm white gold case, a first for the Yacht-Master which was launched in 1992, dazzles with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds from the lugs to the crown guard.

Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 

Besides appearing uniquely in white gold, the sailing watch is also now available in a 42 mm yellow gold case.

Like the original 1992 model, the Yacht-Master 42 includes a bidirectional rotatable bezel and a ceramic insert with an elevated graduation.

It’s worn with Rolex’s Oysterflex bracelet which is robust and reliable as well as flexible, stylish, and rests easily on the wrist.

Time is also easy to read on the dial because the markers and hands now feature Chromalight display, an optimised luminescent material that glows stronger and lasts longer in daylight.

Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31

A Rolex classic first rolled out in 1945, this timeless model comes in three new versions this year, with dials in three finishes – one each for three watches: sunray, matt and grained.

The dials, framed in a 31 mm case (Oystersteel and white gold, yellow gold and Oystersteel and Everose gold), display a flower motif in three different colours – azzurro blue, olive green and silver.

The timepieces are examples of refined dial-making expertise which requires high-technology finishing techniques.