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Perfection in simplicity

With his flagship L'Enclume voted best restaurant in Britain and his newly opened Fera in one of London's swankiest hotels, Simon Rogan has attracted fame as well as criticism. He talks to Jaime Ee about the pressures of living up to high expectations

URBAN STANCE British chef Simon Rogan (above) practically pioneered the locavore movement by serving only ingredients found in and around Cumbria, most of which are grown on his own farm or reared by hand-picked farmers. At his new restaurant, Fera at Claridge's, he serves up Portland crab with lettuce and seaweed, Winslade cheese with duck hearts and pea flour wafers with herbs and flowers. - PHOTOS: JOHN ARANDHARA-BLACKWELL

IF Simon Rogan looks a bit ill at ease, it's not without good reason. His is the wary stance of one who's been put through the wringer by the British press who thrust him in the limelight for taking over Gordon Ramsay's restaurant at the venerable Claridge's, and systematically took him down...