SOME cities may need official tourist arrival figures to get an idea of whether more or fewer foreigners are coming to visit. But not Bangkok. For a true gauge of whether people are avoiding the Thai capital because of recent political skirmishes, just check out the reservations book at local health spa Let's Relax.

Let's Relax is like tourist massage central - a foot reflexology session or body massage at its Terminal 21 branch seems as compulsory as getting your passport stamped at Suvarnabhumi. Forget about getting an on-the-spot appointment - savvy tourists book in advance, leaving the staff to smile sympathetically and say "sorry, fully booked" in a lilting voice to every bedraggled foreign walk-in with sore, Teva sandal-clad feet.

It's a little different these days. Pockets of idle time mean you can actually pop in unannounced, or be slotted in within a couple of hours. It's still busy, just not overwhelmingly so - which may well sum up Bangkok's attempts to get its tourism groove back now that it's under military rule.