FOR the longest time, Japan's tourism could be summed up thus: a case of more foreigners wanting to experience a distinctive culture than there were Japanese willing to share it with them.

That imbalance is less obvious now, as Japan opens its doors wider to an eager influx of tourists hungry for both its food and omotenashi - the "spirit" of Japanese hospitality and service.

If you're an onsen fan who has long shed your inhibitions about soaking in a public hot spring bath with naked strangers, there's no better way to experience omotenashi than in a traditional ryokan where personalised service is at a level not seen in any other commercial accommodation. Usually family-run with a hospitable okami-san at the helm, your every need is taken care of - from the moment you step in and a pair of slippers magically appears, right down to the meticulously prepared kaiseki dinners made with locally sourced produce.